SUNDAY morning and neither one of us slept really well so when the alarm went off at 4 AM we were mostly awake already. It takes us awhile to close up the RV, prepare for departure and then drive to the shuttle stop.
We started down the Kaibab Trail at about 6:45 AM. As it is with most group adventures we all started off together in high spirits. At the one mile point was a potty break and a view point. The minute John and I arrived we recognized this spot. About 18 years ago, we had been here with the kids. It has changed some because there are rails where before John yelled at the kids to stay away from the edge! Its amazing to realize that you are below the rim but not even close to the bottom and the views are wonderful.
From this point on, the downward hike gets steeper and people start moving at their own pace, some fast, some slow, as we start spreading out. Periodically we find shade from the overhangs and sides of cliffs; the switchbacks allow us to see most of our group at different points along the trail; and it is still wide enough to step to the side to allow the mule trains to pass. About every 45 minutes to an hour we stop to hydrate and carb up (eat). This also allows some of the group to gather together for a short while. The knees are starting to feel the pressure, calves are sore and some are having trouble with toes hitting their boots.
We are surprised to find outhouses at some of the stops but not near enough for some of us. One time, Kathy and I really needed to go, so we asked the guys to keep an eye out for other hikers and we crept around a point of rock to potty. Well, the guys didn't do a very good job of guarding us and an oriental man walked near us to take a picture of the view. Kathy and I didn't quite know what to do, started giggling and finally pulled up our pants hoping this man would not look our way! My underwear did not come up with my shorts until the next potty break! Kathy kept seeing this guy on the trail. Hmmm?
At about the 6 mile mark we were really spread out. John and I, Lanny and Paul stopped for lunch and found John, Susanna, Jack and Kathy from our group right around the corner. David, Mickey, Katy and Mary were about an hour or so behind us. By the time we got to the bottom to cross the Black Bridge over the Colorado River it was about 12:15 and my left shin was hurting pretty bad but there wasn't much I could do about it. It was very hot and no shade to be found.
Once across the bridge we still had over a mile to walk to Phantom Ranch. The path followed Bright Angel Creek on our left and hugged the canyon wall on our right. A sign near the creek suggested we stop to cool our feet but we marched on. By the time I reached the canteen at the ranch, I was dehydrated and over heated. It took me about a half hour to cool off enough to become social again.
Several of the group had a beer to celebrate then we then picked up our duffles the mules had carried down and found two camp sites located on the creek with lots of shade provided by the canyon wall and ancient cottonwood trees. A thermometer said it was 110 in the sun and 97 in the shade. We had the sites set up by the time the last four arrived about and hour and a half after we got there.
We spent the afternoon cooling off in the creek, sharing our various stories of our trip down. Dinner was served at the canteen, about a 15 minute walk from the camp, in two shifts of 5 and 6:30 PM. We had steak, baked potatoes, peas, corn, salad, cornbread and chocolate cake for dessert. Quiet hours started at 8 PM and by 8:30 we were all in our tents, sleeping.
MONDAY found three couples getting up at 4 AM to break camp, eat breakfast at 5 AM and then starting their hike out. It was recommend that hikers start early to beat the heat and the crowds on Bright Angel Trail. The other three couples (including us) stayed at Phantom Ranch for one more night. The Ranch is nestled between two canyon walls in an oasis of water, trees and grass. There are about 14 residents who live here year round and provide all the hands needed to take care of the campers and travelers. The main building complex has the canteen and kitchen and private residences. There are cabins and bunkhouses to rent, park ranger quarters, a mule corral, amphitheater and shaded picnic tables near fresh water sources. The canteen can feed up to 48 people each shift. The restrooms all had running water and electricity.
Our day off from the hike was spent on a casual, easy hike along the River Trail with fantastic views of the Colorado River and the north canyon walls. We spent a lot of time in the creek, some of us (John) even napping while in the water. It was a very lazy day off. For dinner, John and I used our backpack camper's stove and fixed lasagna, green beans, and raspberry crumble with chocolate crumbs. It was all very tasty, actually!
It gets dark in the canyon between 7 and 7:30 so by 8 we are mostly ready for bed. Paul and Kathy left their air mattresses for us so we hoped for a better nights sleep. John and I were the last to go to bed after we walked to the bathroom to brush our teeth. Along the path we spotted a cute gray fox. When we got back to the campsite our headlamps spotted a ringtail cat digging into David's backpack which was hanging from a long pole. John chased it off and we got everyone out of bed to unload all the food in the packs, putting it in the metal boxes provided for us. Now we can sleep in peace!
TUESDAY morning we got up at 4 am and packed all the sleeping gear and tent back into our duffle which we took to the canteen area for the mule ride to the top. After a big breakfast, we were on the trail by 6:15. The first two miles parallel the river before turning up hill following Pipe Creek and then Indian Creek. This trail is not as steep nor as harsh a landscape as the one we came down. Because of all the water there are more trees and shady areas but we are still walking up through canyons with high, steep walls on both sides. At about the five mile mark after a steep climb up the Devil's Corkscrew we stopped at Indian Gardens for a short break and to refill our water packs. We haven't climbed much at this point so we have some steep slopes ahead. The campground here is a popular spot to stay along the Bright Angel Trail and the Tonto Trail. Tonto traverses the canyon for over 60 miles but that will have to be another trip!
About every 1.5 miles between Indian Garden and the top there is a water and pit toilet rest area and boy do we need that! I lost count of the number of switchbacks we go through. As we gain altitude, I become more winded and have to stop often to catch my breath. Susanna and I move at about the same pace. John and John are just ahead of us and Dave and Mickey are so far ahead we can't see them. This last leg is very crowed with day-hikers and tourist who think it must be an easy hike but they are in for a rude awakening when they turn around to go back up.
Our cheering friends are at the end of the trail to capture the moment of completion with high fives and flashing cameras! We did it! Check this one off the bucket list.
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