Thursday, March 10, 2011

Casas Grande aka Paquime

A typical Mexican buffet breakfast started off our day. We had scrambled eggs with ham, refried beans, potatoes with peppers and sausage, tortilla and cheese casserole, fruit and rolls. We were stuffed! And its a good thing because we didn't get to eat lunch until after 2 PM!

Thu, Mar 10, 2011

We rode in a Trolley Car to tour some of Nueve (new) Casas Grande and then Casas Grande - the original, historic part of town. Then we went out to Paquime (pronounced pah-kee-may'). When the Spaniards invade this area they ask the Indians what this place was called and they said, "Paquime." Legend has it that this word means "I don't know!" in the Indian language but the Spaniards thought it meant "Big House". The ruins we see today are just the foundations of what were believed to be two and three story buildings. They had a system of running water going thru the town and into the buildings, there were two ball courts such as seen in the pyramids of southern Mexico, and many other architectural details that makes this a World Heritage site.

Thu, Mar 10, 2011

Not far from this site was a new church built in a style similar to those that Franciscan monks built in the 1800's. But inside the walls were covered in a mural painted by a local artist depicting Jesus resurrection and the angels in the clouds surrounding him. It was very pastoral.

Thu, Mar 10, 2011

On our way to Mata Ortiz, we stopped at a hacienda built in 1902 -1904. It was the site of several battles with Poncho Villa. It was owned by a very rich landowner so there are vestiges of opulence in the building as well as bullet holes from the battles. Only half of the hacienda is being lived in while the other half is very slowly being restored.

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Thu, Mar 10, 2011

From there we drove into Mata Ortiz, a small village that is full of artisans, most of whom have studied pottery making from the originator of this style -- Juan Quezada. We stopped at Juan's house just as they were ready to demonstrate how they fire this style of pottery. The pots themselves are hand formed without the use of a wheel. They are then painted in the style of the native Paquima using a very fine, human hair brush. When they are fired, they are placed on a stand on the ground. A large bucket is placed over the pots and sealed with dirt. The men placed firewood all around the bucket as well as on top. This was lit and left to burn into ash while we ate our lunch. When the fire had died, the ash was very gently pushed away from the bucket and after it had cooled somewhat, the bucket was slowly lifted off of the pots. They had changed from red clay to a beautiful black and white pot. Of course, they had a shop where we could purchase pottery.

On our way out of town we stopped by another artist who works with wood. Then we went thru the Mormon settlement before returning to our campground. It was a VERY long day.

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